The tour really began outside on the Stephansplatz, by a small model of the cathedral and by a glass display case showing photographs of the cathedral in the immediate aftermath of World War II. Apparently sparks from a fire in an adjacent building set the wooden roof of St. Stephen's alight, causing it to collapse. The photos revealed the rubble that was on the floor and the light that didn't always shine in between the clustered piers that held up the gothic arches. (I would later see the reconstructed arches for myself inside the cathedral.) Also while we were outside on Stephansplatz, Professor Stuart asked us to answer this question: How do you feel about the modern glass building next to Stephansdom?
I am told that the Viennese have been revolted by the building's existence, much in the way that the Parisians have been revolted by the glass pyramid in front of the Louvre. Personally, I will say that I do think it does look out of place. Combined with all the other buildings around it, it's a bit crass next to a structure that has served as the geographical and cultural center of Vienna for so long. However, I suppose such construction was inevitable, and as I can do nothing about it, I have to accept it.
Going inside Stephansdom, Dr. O revealed to us how late the gothic cathedral had been completed - 1500! This greatly surprised me, as this was more or less the middle of the Renaissance era. And yet, Renaissance elements can be found in this outwardly gothic church. Perhaps the most notable examples are the two self-portraits of the scultpor Anton Pilgrim, who designed the stairway to the pulpit and the organ loft. How interesting, that he was allowed to do this.
I was sorry to hear that almost all of the original stained glass windows were removed in the Baroque era. Maybe it was part of Joseph II's plan for more "practicality" in the city? In any case, what a shame that the majority of the windows are light pastel rectangles.
After the tour ended, most people seemed to go back to the apartments, but I wanted to stay out more and explore the city a bit. So I made up my own mind and took the U6 out to Handelskai station, right on the bank of the Danube. I just wanted to explore the vicinity, see the river, make the most of the daylight left... It just seemed like a good idea and I was feeling a little adventurous.
As I sat on the riverbank, I wrote this in the notebook I had with me:"The Danube is not as beautifully blue as Strauss would have me believe but the riverbanks themselves are just fine. Many people here seem to be relaxing on the grass, walking their dogs, jogging... Except for the trains on the nearby bridges and the barge slowly making its way upstream, it's a nice place. I should like to bike up the Danube if I can find the time."
Walking back to the U-bahn station I passed through the Millenium City shopping mall and played the game that my friend invented when we were in Calgary together: count how many stores in the mall have "Sale" signs in the windows! This mall was only about 40-50% filled with sale signs; according to my mother, that means it's more upscale! But all in all shopping malls don't interest me too much.
What was more interesting was seeing a guy with a t-shirt featuring the words "South Cali" on it in west coast colors. I've seen several people wearing shirts from Hollister Co. or other designs evocative of my home state. This is a little strange, being so far away from home yet seeing it still manifest itself around me. I am reminded of how Aaron Copland once visited Vienna as a student and found American jazz being played in a cafe, and how odd that was for him. (His first symphonies would end up incorporating jazz elements in them.) I'm not sure what to say on these strange occurrences, other than it makes me appreciate home a little more if people on the other side of the world like it that much to feature it on their shirts.
The German word of the day is "Krieg," meaning "war."
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